Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
