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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.